Post-Summer Nail Recovery Plan

2022-08-21 02:53:22 By : Mr. Andy Yang

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Fun was had, damage was done. Happily, Dana Stern, MD, a dermatologist with an expertise in nail health, is here with smart, safe solutions for dry, weak, peeling nails—plus other top concerns.

Some of summer’s greatest pleasures—splashing in the waves, gardening, taking hikes, and going on vacation—can take a toll on fingernails and toenails. In fact, Dana Stern, MD, one of the only dermatologists in the country who specializes in nails, sees an influx of seasonal nail issues at the end of every summer. “There’s a lot of toenail fungus, nails that are lifting off the nail bed, and brittle, broken, and peeling nails,” she says, adding that by the time she meets with patients, they’re often caught in what she calls the nail camouflage cycle: “They hide their nail damage with nail polish or bandages, which make the problems worse.” Taking the time to treat the underlying damage is well worth it, not only for your physical health but for your mental health, too. “Our nails are such a big part of our appearance; I witness firsthand how much more confident and put-together patients feel when they’ve overcome a nail issue,” Stern says. Here’s her treatment plan for the most common summer-related problems.

Walking barefoot—such a simple summertime pleasure—opens you up to this common pitfall. “If your toenail hits a hard object, it can start to lift and separate. It doesn’t just look unappealing. It sometimes allows pathogens like yeast to colonize, which prevents the nail from re-adhering to the nail bed,” Stern explains.

Something as innocent as regularly cleaning under your nails can cause nails to lift up as well—and because some people spend more time outside in the summer, we tend to get our hands dirty more often, which increases our de-gunking frequency. “I see a ton of onycholysis [the separation of the nail from the underlying nail bed] in women over the age of 50 who have regular professional manicures. It seems that as we age our nails don’t adhere as firmly to the nail bed and so something as seemingly mild as a quick swipe under the nail with an orange stick can cause the nail to lift and separate,” Stern says. Once the nail lifts up, water and other chemicals can enter the nail bed, irritating the area and making it hard for the nail to heal.

Be sure to keep nails clipped short, and don’t file them. “Filing will cause the nail to separate further,” Stern says. “It’s also best to avoid polish remover and to refrain from cleaning under the nail, which can cause further separation. Don’t secure the nail with a Band-Aid, either. It’ll create too much moisture.” If the issue persists for several months, see a board-certified dermatologist or podiatrist.

Gel manicures and gel pedicures have been especially popular this summer thanks to weddings, vacations, and open-toed shoes, Stern notes. The gel polish itself isn’t damaging, but the removal process can be. Soaking your nails in acetone, which is what softens the gel so it can be pulled off, is dehydrating to your natural nail and cuticle. And research has proven that scraping, peeling, or filing the gel off makes your nails thinner, Stern says.

Another reason for weak nails: spending time in the water at the beach, pool, or lake. “The nail is 1,000 times more absorptive than the skin, and an influx of water puts tremendous strain on the onychocytes [nail cells], which can lead to breakage and peeling,” Stern says. Chlorinated pools add an extra layer of strain because the chemicals can dry out nails and cuticles. “The cuticle is the nail’s natural protective seal, preventing moisture and infections from entering the nail and protecting the nail matrix, which produces the nail. When the cuticle is dehydrated and separates, the new nail growth can look irregular.”

Your goal is to rehydrate and strengthen. Take what Stern calls a nail polish holiday, and instead give yourself a weekly exfoliating, hydrating, and strengthening treatment. Stern recommends her own Nail Renewal System, which is a three-step, polish-free routine. Step one is a glycolic acid exfoliant that helps loosen old, dead skin cells. “Removing damaged layers will help hydrating and fortifying ingredients absorb,” Stern says. Step two is a physical exfoliator that gets rid of more of the damaged cells and also makes nails look and feel smoother. Step three is a botanical formula that you paint on nails to strengthen them. “This plant-based, clean formula contains an extract from a Mediterranean tree that’s been proven to increase nail thickness, making nails appear stronger in a week,” says Stern.

The other key step is to take care of your cuticles. Don’t cut them. Instead, gently push them back with a washcloth while you’re in the shower. And “apply a cuticle oil or cuticle ointment at least once a day,” Stern advises. Check out a bunch of great cuticle care options here.

The heat and humidity causes us to sweat, and places like our feet become an ideal environment for fungi. People are also prone to fungus exposure when they’re barefoot in hotel rooms, spas, and pools. Typically, the fungus begins on the skin and then—when the nail experiences trauma—it spreads into the nail. “The trauma doesn’t need to be anything dramatic; simply stubbing your toe or getting a pedicure where an orange stick was used a bit too vigorously is all it takes,” Stern says.

These infections are challenging. “No single therapy has a 100 percent cure rate,” Stern says. The good news is that you have options to try. A doctor can prescribe oral or topical treatments. “FDA-approved topicals efinaconazole and tavaborole are generally safe and have very minimal side effects,” Stern says. “They also have higher efficacy rates than over-the-counter and naturopathic approaches. That said, the naturopathic remedies are relatively innocuous and less expensive.” There’s no reason you can’t try the non-prescription options first. Vicks VapoRub is a popular go-to. In a lab setting, its ingredients—thymol, menthol, camphor, and eucalyptus oil—have been shown to help clear up the fungi, per Stern. If you don’t see improvement after four months, head to a dermatologist. “It’s possible that you have something that’s not fungal,” Stern explains.

Kate Sandoval Box (she/her) is the Beauty Director at Oprah Daily. She has over 18 years of experience at national women’s media brands; and, in fact, started her publishing career at O, The Oprah Magazine. She’s also held beauty editor roles at Shape, Self, Latina, and Cosmopolitan. Kate tests hundreds and hundreds of beauty products that cross her desk each year and interviews many top experts, celebrities, and indie brand founders to bring you the best in beauty. Follow her on Instagram.

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